• September 20, 2014

Corn ice cream a tasty twist on classic

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Posted: Wednesday, July 31, 2013 4:30 am

There’s no way around it: If you want to make ice cream at home, you need an ice cream maker. Without an ice cream maker, you can make adequate ice cream substitutes — among them slushy granitas and moderately creamy frozen whipped cream — but you cannot make ice cream. That’s because ice cream gets its smooth, rich texture from being churned in an ice-cold bowl, a process that forces air into it as it freezes. Yes, an ice cream maker is a space hog, and no, it doesn’t have many other uses, but without one your only options are buying a pint of Häagen-Dazs (probably freezer-burned) or visiting your local artisanal ice cream boutique (probably overpriced).

You will notice that ice cream is not called “ice milk” or “ice half-and-half,” and there’s a reason for this: Ice cream ought to be made with cream. Specifically, heavy cream (sometimes called whipping cream), the kind with a high enough fat content that it will hold stiff peaks when beaten. Lower-fat dairy products will yield a disappointingly icy-textured frozen dessert with the dull flavor of malted milk.

If you, like me, had freeze-dried corn powder left over after making polenta a few months ago, I cannot encourage you vehemently enough to put it in your ice cream. Heck, even if you didn’t make polenta a few months ago, I vehemently encourage you to buy freeze-dried corn powder for the express purpose of putting it in your ice cream.

Corn ice cream is a sweet, slightly tangy, succulent marvel: the perfect summertime dessert (especially if you serve it topped with hot strawberry-rhubarb jam).

However, if you are too lazy to procure freeze-dried corn powder or make it yourself in a food processor, you may leave it out of the below recipe for vanilla-brown-sugar ice cream, which, though nowhere near as exciting as corn ice cream, beats that freezer-burned store-bought pint by a long shot.

Corn and brown sugar ice cream

Yield: 1½ pints (4 to 6 servings)

Time: 1 to 2 hours, mostly unattended

  • 3 cups heavy cream
  • ½ cup brown sugar
  • 4 large egg yolks
  • 2 tablespoons freeze-dried corn powder
  • Salt
  • 1 tablespoon vanilla extract

Directions

  1. Put 2 cups of the cream in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook until it begins to steam, about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk the brown sugar, egg yolks, freeze-dried corn powder, and a pinch of salt until thick and pale, 1 to 2 minutes. Gradually whisk the hot cream into the eggs and sugar, then return the mixture to the saucepan and continue to cook, whisking constantly, until slightly thickened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the vanilla extract and cool.
  2. Meanwhile, whip the remaining 1 cup cream with the whisk attachment of a stand mixer (or a handheld electric mixer) until stiff peaks form. Fold the whipped cream into the cooled custard. Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
  3. Serve immediately, or transfer to an airtight container and freeze for up to one month.

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