Turkey. Let’s talk about it — honestly. Is it time to ax that big ol’ bird from your Thanksgiving feast? Even if you do have the free hours to roast it, a hungry crowd to feed and enough oven space to hold the monster, who these days has the carving skills to do the portioning at the dining room table? Indeed, who among us has a dining room anymore?
As the Butterball people note, 80 percent of us will carve that whole turkey in the kitchen. What arrives at the table is not the golden fantasy of magazine covers but a platter of sliced breast meat and disjointed legs. That prompts a question: Has the whole turkey become “a 20-pound Yankee candle, good only for perfume,” Julia Moskin asks in “CookFight” (Ecco, $29.99), co-authored with her New York Times colleague Kim Severson.
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